He rolls up his shirt sleeve, a little embarrassed. He got caught by the sun, which finally returned at the end of May, and his skin turned red with clear marks. A cyclist’s tan, heavily loaded, the color of the final stage of the Tour de France. Pruning under the scorching sun doesn’t forgive.
In the early evening, in Échichens, the winemakers are all at the same stage of their crop treatment. They discuss the topic before sitting down for their meeting. The objective: choosing the logo. There are eight of them, three women and five men, embarking on a great adventure: testing a system of reusable bottles for two years. A sustainable economy project called “Bottle back,” subsidized with CHF 88,000 by the Vaud Department of Economic Promotion and Innovation.
Catherine Cruchon, Laura Paccot, Noémie Graff, François de Coulon, Lionel Widmer, Vincent Chollet, Philippe Meyer, Jean-Daniel Porta. They range in age from 32 to 57, and their professional history is already very eco-friendly. Biodynamics, natural wines, reduced treatments, rethought logistics—each has made progress to steer their cellar towards environmentally friendly practices. The reusable bottle is the next step, as confirmed by Noémie Graff from Domaine le Satyre: “We have made a lot of efforts in the vineyard, in the cellar, and it was time to tackle this third pillar.”
The spark came from Catherine Cruchon. After attending a conference on the problems faced by American winemakers due to fires, and conducting a carbon footprint assessment on the Henri Cruchon estate, she realized that more needed to be done. “We have to go further. If I don’t take action, I can’t sleep. So I picked up my phone and called many colleagues.”
The bottle
On paper, the equation is simple. Making a glass bottle requires sand, and it is depleting. In fact, it is the second most exploited raw material after water, according to the United Nations. Its extraction destroys ecosystems. Until now, recycling seemed virtuous. However, recycling a bottle requires heating it to 1500 degrees for twenty-four hours, which consumes a lot of energy. Washing it takes only twenty minutes at 80 degrees. In essence, a reusable bottle generates 85% less greenhouse gas emissions than a single-use equivalent. So, the reusable bottle seems to be the way to go. But once it’s said, it still needs to be done, and it’s no small matter, if you’ll pardon the expression.
Because listening to our eight enthusiasts, it quickly becomes overwhelming. The goal is to create a system that encourages bottle returns for washing. And that’s where things get complicated: to streamline logistics, the process needs to be unified. This means breaking a taboo: using the same bottle. Sacrilege, as for decades, wineries have done everything to stand out from each other with different glass colors, shapes, thicknesses, and labels.
But that didn’t stop our protagonists, who focused on the criteria for a standardized bottle: lightweight, 75-centiliter format, a color closer to olive than brown for cleanliness control. And a bottle produced in Switzerland, of course, by Vetropack.
The project involves a total of 40,000 bottles, so each winemaker will only contribute a small portion of their production. However, the cultural challenge should not be underestimated, as Laura Paccot from Domaine de la Colombe testifies: “My parents focused on verticality, fine wines, taut and mineral, which correspond to our bottles, slender and elongated. Trying a different shape is like sweeping away history.”
The label
As for industrial washing centers, there are now only two left in Switzerland, so they will be tested one after the other. Let’s skip the puzzle of transportation, storage, and return systems for individuals or restaurants. But let’s focus on the label, especially its adhesive, as it obviously needs to be washable: components, types of paper, use of flat colors, prohibition of metallic inks, everything needs to be tested. François de Coulon from Domaine du Château d’Éclépens recounts: “Over the years, we have all started making labels that allow embossing and gilding. It has become a quality criterion for customers, but it uses petroleum-based adhesives, it’s not washable, it’s absurd.”
“We always go too far for those who go nowhere.”
Noémie Graff, winemaker
The project will also have to verify the washing conditions, provide advice to customers on how to care for the bottles to extend their lifespan, the time between washing and refilling, dozens of details that are not insignificant and make one wonder if all of this is reasonable. But it’s better not to oppose Noémie Graff. She fires back with, “We always go too far for those who go nowhere.”
Price is also a challenge: for more and more people to participate, the reusable bottle must be cheaper than a new one. According to Catherine Cruchon’s calculation, it should be achievable: “A new bottle costs 60 cents, washing costs about 32 cents, so it’s worth it.”
Not the horse
Bottle washing is not a new concept; it used to be done in the past. And that’s precisely why the older generation widened their eyes when the eight visionaries presented the idea. Catherine Cruchon understands them: “They spent their lives trying to simplify the work. When they started, there were still horses in the vineyards, we didn’t have tractors. Washing bottles was complicated, everyone had to do it on their own, storage was a headache, and it smelled bad. That’s why we need to test simple and unified solutions.” However, she promised her uncle not to go too far when he said, “The day you bring back the horse, I’ll quit everything!”
Working as a family, it certainly teaches respect. Even though they have made changes, all the winemakers emphasize that they are not imposing any rupture, that the first ecological decisions were made by their parents. Vincent Chollet from Domaine Mermetus assures, “My father has always tried new things; it’s in the family’s DNA.” Noémie Graff laughs, “With the team, we have already experienced the transition to organic production, the move to natural wine. These days, we are planting trees in the vineyards, so believe me, they’ve seen it all. The reusable bottle doesn’t shock them that much.”
The Public
Are the eight winemakers ready, but is the public ready as well? Lionel Widmer from Cave du Signal is convinced that customers will follow: “They are aware of the climate challenge and ready for change. Many of them are already returning the boxes.” The same goes for François de Coulon: “Customers drop off the boxes in front of the cellar. We stamp the recycled ones to differentiate them from the new ones. When there’s a choice, half of them want the recycled ones.”
“In the past, a heavy bottle was a sign of an expensive wine. Today, customers know it’s not eco-friendly.”
Laura Paccot, winemaker
Won’t there be complaints about bottles that become less shiny over time with repeated washing? “No,” assures Laura Paccot. “The visual standard has already changed. In the past, a heavy bottle was a sign of an expensive wine. Today, customers know it’s not eco-friendly, and they prefer thin glass. If the communication is done well, the criteria evolve within a few years.” Catherine Cruchon agrees, “I believe that in five or ten years, customers will prefer washed bottles over new ones because they will understand that they are more eco-friendly.”
The scarcity of sand, which leads to real climate problems, and the likely increase in the cost of glass can accelerate the process. Laura Paccot sees it coming, “One day, there will surely be taxes on new bottles. So, let’s seize the opportunity to create another solution.”
“Our customers are aware of the climate challenge; they are ready for change.”
Lionel Widmer, winemaker
What will determine the success of the test in two years? The eight winemakers will specify the criteria, but it won’t be a simple yes or no, assures Catherine Cruchon. “It’s not about succeeding or failing, but about identifying the links in the chain that can be improved. If it doesn’t work perfectly, it doesn’t mean we failed, but that we need one or two more years to solve the problems.” She also dreams of expanding the project at the national level, making it a Swiss specialty. Before deciding to stay at the cantonal level, she had called about sixty winemakers from various cantons. They all said yes, “I’m interested. Call me when it’s launched.” At the cantonal level, it’s already launched.
Article written by 24 heures
©Yvain Genevay
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