I tend to actively avoid the word ‘iconic’ as it seems like a somewhat crass descriptor for most wines. However, for truly iconic wines, what other word applies? When tasked with the assignment to write about an iconic wine from Adelaide, South Australia, there seemed to be little contest. Penfolds Grange was the obvious choice. As I sit in Penfolds Chief Winemaker Peter Gago’s office at Magill Estate to discuss Grange’s role as an icon, Gago accepts its truth, but with a sigh.