Coonawarra’s wine story began back in 1890 with John Riddoch, a forward-thinker who recognised the land’s potential. By 1894, he’d founded the Coonawarra Fruit Colony, encouraging settlers to plant vineyards and orchards in precise, neatly laid-out rows, an approach that still defines the region’s vine architecture today.
But design here isn’t just found in the vineyards. It’s woven into the buildings, too. Riddoch’s original triple-gabled stone winery, now home to Wynns Coonawarra Estate, still stands tall, surrounded by beautifully restored limestone structures and sleek, modern cellar doors that melt into the surroundings. These aren’t just functional buildings; they are physical expressions of Coonawarra past meeting the present.
Bellwether Winery is a standout stop. Set on six peaceful acres, the cellar door is housed in a charming old shearing shed from 1868 that’s been lovingly brought back to life since 2009. Now proudly female-owned and operated, the space is full of rustic character and artistic flair. There’s a relaxed, communal feel here, guests can gather around the large outdoor table, cook in the shared kitchen, or forage in the kitchen garden. Glamping tents and campsites dot the property, giving visitors a chance to slow down and soak it all in. The original timber and materials from the shed have been cleverly reused, and towering ancient eucalypt trees, some more than a thousand years old, stand as a powerful tribute to the Traditional Custodians of the land. Inside, the vibe is earthy and energetic, with open fermenters sitting under the original beams and a small stage for live music to enjoy sipping on Bellwether’s expressive wines. Their ‘Ant Series’, featuring artwork by Dan Tomkins, brings a personal, creative touch that mirrors the wine philosophy here, elegant, thoughtful, and full of heart.
Balnaves Winery is another regional icon, family-owned and full of character. Their story began in the 1970s with Doug Balnaves, a self-taught winemaker who blazed his own trail. Today, the Balnaves own 75 hectares in the Coonawarra, 50 of which is around the winery itself, most of it devoted to Cabernet Sauvignon, including some vines more than 50 years old. The local climate, warm by day and cool by night, helps grapes ripen slowly while holding onto their acidity, giving the wines structure and grace. The vineyard itself is bordered by 167 varieties of roses, both a beautiful and practical choice, acting as early warning signs for vine health. The cellar door, perched beside a serene lake, offers a calm, elegant setting to taste the wines. Look down and you’ll see the famous red soil with glass flooring underfoot. Inside, the winery is designed with both function and style in mind, smart, efficient, and easy on the eye. It’s a great example of how thoughtful design can enhance both winemaking and visitor experience.
Patrick of Coonawarra brings a different energy to the region, playful, experimental, and always pushing the envelope. Offering wine and insect pairings and trying experimental wines such as “Method Eucalyptus”, a Cabernet Sauvignon grown near gum trees that captures Coonawarra’s signature minty notes. But their creativity goes beyond the wine itself. At both their Cellar Door and Home Block vineyard, eco gardens filled with native plants support biodiversity and endangered species like the Southern Bent-wing Bat. This commitment to sustainability shapes everything, from how the vines are managed to how the buildings are designed. The result is a winery that feels fresh, forward-thinking, and deeply connected to its environment.
I happened to visit Coonawarra during the start of vintage and joined in on a hands-on celebration at the historic Coonawarra Railway Siding. Built by Riddoch in 1898, this iconic platform once shipped off the region’s top produce and today is one of South Australia’s most snapped photo spots. It also marks the beginning of a newly 19-kilometre rail trail for walkers and cyclists. The start of the vintage gathering was a brilliant mix of tradition and fun, bagpipes played in honour of Riddoch’s Scottish roots, as we stomped grapes barefoot in barrels, and Wynns winemaker Sue Hodder ceremonially smashed a bottle with a golden hammer to welcome the new season. It was more than just a day out, it captured everything Coonawarra stands for: history, creativity, and a strong sense of community.
Wynns Coonawarra Estate ties all these threads together beautifully. Founded in 1891, its heritage-listed winery, complete with the iconic triple gables which remain the beating heart of the estate. Riddoch’s vision for terroir-driven Cabernet and Shiraz is alive and well, with carefully tended vineyards across the famed red soils. The cellar door is a seamless blend of old and new, showcasing classic woodcut engravings by Tate Adams alongside a sleek tasting room decor that remains grounded in history. Signature wines like the Black Label Cabernet (first released in 1954) and the flagship John Riddoch Cabernet continue to set the standard. Even the label design, featuring the original winery building, tells a story of place and pride.
At Brand’s Laira, another layer of the region’s design story unfolds. The site was named in 1893 by sea captain Henry Stentiford after his ship, Laira. When Eric Brand took over in 1950, he helped shape it into one of Coonawarra’s most respected wineries. The cellar door is built around Eric’s Shed, a charming, rough-hewn structure made from local limestone. The original beams and stone walls remain, filled with old vintage wines, now paired inside a striking modern cellar door with glass walls which frame vineyard views. It’s a perfect example of how architecture can preserve the past while embracing the future.
Coonawarra proves that heritage and innovation can live side by side through clever design. From Riddoch’s pioneering winery to Bellwether’s artistic revival and Patrick’s bold experiments, every building, vineyard, layout, soil and bottle tells part of the region’s story. Whether you’re sipping wine next to the rose bushes at Balnaves or admiring the sun filtering through the stone walls at Brand’s Laira, you’re experiencing more than just a wine region, you’re stepping into a living, breathing gallery of Australian winemaking design.
This blog is written by Teri van Aalst, the Wine Communicators of Australia Wine Media Cadet.
The cadetship is supported by the Great Wine Capitals Adelaide, South Australia chapter, which is a partnership between the Government of South Australia (South Australian Tourism Commission and the Department of Primary Industries and Regions), the South Australian Wine Industry Association, and the University of Adelaide.
Thanks to Coonawarra Vignerons for hosting Teri.
Photos: Teri van Aalst